About Traveling Foodie a.k.a DrFoodie

Thursday, December 6, 2012

One of My Many Birthday Week Dinners: "Time-Honored Cookery" with Chef Scott Herritt- Kitchen, Boston South End

Kitchen now occupies the space where Pops Diner used to dwell.  I never had the chance to sample Pops' food, but I enjoyed my (actual) birthday dinner at Kitchen with Chef Scott Herritt running the pass at the open kitchen, ensuring the quality of what he calls his "mid-life crisis of cooking" before the plates head to the floor.

"Time-Honored Cookery" is how Kitchen describes the menu.  The menu celebrates classic dishes- and not of the grilled cheese and tomato soup variety.  Kitchen's menu  pays tribute to a number of Continental recipes with a history.  You can drool read over the menu here.

Service was a perfect ballroom dance of taking orders (thanks Diego), filling glasses, and clearing the table.  The pacing was perfect.  The patrons mingling around the bar seemed to enjoy themselves.  I hear the bartender is great.

Me and Mommy!
We began with aperitif of NV Gosset Champagne to toast my 33rd birthday and a few beginner dishes.  I love steak tartare and enjoyed the richness of the silky hand-chopped tenderloin seasoned with garlic and parsley was cut with salty capers, cornichons, and sliced boiled egg. The crispy bread and the balsamic drizzle added layers of texture and acidity, respectively. 

Steak Tartare (Circa 1921)


The Grand Sallet (Circa 1638) is an Elizabethan recipe and was first featured in John Murrell's, The Second Booke of Cookery and Carving (1638)

The Grand Sallet (Circa 1638)

This salad plate features a cornucopia of flavors and textures-sweet, savory, acerbic, crunchy, sticky, tender morsels create this complex "Great Salad".

The Grand Sallet topples over with mixed greens, sweet, sticky figs, salty capers, delicious currants, herbs, dates, hard-boiled eggs, and bright, julienned, candied orange rinds.  In keeping with tradition, the dressing barely plays an assisting role in this production- a simple sherry vinaigrette.

Though artistically presented, the frog legs were a bit of a disappointment with their coarse, heavy, dry crust, but the meat was tender and moist.  I also enjoyed the rousing heat of the Kitchen's cayenne pepper housemade Hot Sauce and the nutty, decadent, blue-flecked Gorgonzola Piccante.  The slaw was unremarkable.

Frog Legs (Circa 1890)
Supposedly, 1890 was not the first time frog legs made an appearance, but it was however a time when sauces (much like Kitchen's Hot Sauce), made their debut onto the culinary scene.

On to the Mock Turtle Soup.  Now I love a good (real) turtle soup just as much as the next girl, but if I HAD to eat mock turtle soup, Kitchen's Beef cheek and tongue soup would make the cut.
Superbly tender, delicate bits of beef were emerged in a rich, dark broth with bits of carrots, peas, and potato floating about.

Mock Turtle Soup (Circa 1860)

Mock Turtle Soup is traditionally made with heat, food, or organ meat.
Side note: Campbell's discontinued mock turtle soup was once a favorite of Andy Wharhol!

Continue...

Dedicated to Julia Childs, the pan-roasted sole (Sole Meuniere), was the first meal Julia had in France. In My Life in France, she says of the dish:  

"it was “perfectly browned in a sputtering butter sauce with a sprinkling of chopped parsley… I closed my eyes and inhaled the rising perfume. Then I lifted a forkful of fish to my mouth… The flesh of the sole was delicate, with a light but distinct taste of the ocean that blended marvelously with the browned butter… It was a morsel of perfection… It was the most exciting meal of my life.”

The Sole Meuniere (November 2, 1948) was served with buttery potato rounds and roasted summer squash.





We also ordered the cheesy creamy spinach.













The venison (Circa 1772) was pretty impressive,  Cooked at a perfect medium rare, the meat was tender, moist, and hearty.  It was with coffee and cocoa- a nice touch- and served with the best tender lentils I've ever had!  They were smoky from the bacon with some sweetness from the apple cider. Simply delicious. The venison made a great omelet the next day also.

Venison and lentils with brussel sprouts
My Turkey Day Brunch omelet at home (made by my mom):

I also received delicious birthday truffles (Chocolate-Peanut butter)

I enjoyed Kitchen and am looking forward to heading back for brunch and more supper!

Mom heading in


Kitchen
560 Tremont Street
Boston, MA 

SERVING SUPPER:
Sunday – Wednesday 5pm – 10pm, Thursday – Saturday 5pm – 10:30pm
SERVING BRUNCH
Saturday & Sunday 10:30am – 3pm
BAR HOURS:
Open nightly until midnight