Once Upon a Miserable Boston Winter: Reminiscing upon brunches/lunches at Canary Square that saved my life during Boston Winter 2015

As a non-cooking single woman, I have not officially (or unofficially) cooked since 4th of July weekend 2014.  When our winter this past year in Boston shut down access to my literal lifelines, I at least brunched well with thanks to good walking boots and uber!

Canary Square has always been my watering hole, but a few changes in kitchen management and staff has instilled in me a new confidence that good eats are a very real thing for me now!

I've enjoyed a beautiful lobster Eggs Benedict with lobster hash, perfectly poached eggs and Hollandaise served in a hot personal skillet.

Lobster Hash

 The quiche was rich and fluffy served French-style with a lightly dressed salad.  I ordered a side of housemade sausage.

Quiche with fig, salad, and housemade sausage

Canary Square has always had great charcuterie plates with a vast diversity in cheeses, meats, jams/butters, mustards, fruits and nuts!  

Their roasted Brussels sprouts are also delicious with umami sauce over crunchy roasted sprouts.

As a watering hole, myself and friends enjoy the libations offered as well...

Joshua's glamour shot after making my favorite hairs of the dog...an Aperol Spritzer!

I've enjoyed a few dinners at this point as well and I'm so thrilled with the kitchen changes.  
Who will save us this winter?

Have you eaten at Canary Square lately?  Let me know what you think in the comments section below!
 

Succulent Sundays (Tres Gatos): A Weekly Celebration of My Favorite Personal Food Photography

One Autumn evening in JP at Tres Gatos...

Chickpea Fritters over Dill Yogurt, Fresh Cucumber, Cilantro, and Halved Chickpeas

Boquerones-Spanish White Anchovies, Grilled Toast, Paprika

Chorizo, Cheese, Apple Butter

El Oriental de Cuba, Jamaica Plain, MA

El Oriental de Cuba has been a staple Latin restaurant in Jamaica Plain near Hyde Square for a number of years. Restaurateur, Nobel Garcia moved his family to Jamaica Plain in 1955.  The space is cozy but vibrant in color, music, energy, and fragrance from the open kitchen. There's a palpable family and community vibe with a diverse circle of patrons including the neighborhoods deeply rooted Hispanic residents.

The food here is farm and sea fresh presenting familiar Latin flavors cumin, garlic, pepper, and flecks of cilantro and abundant tomato-based sauces.  

The menu boasts classic Cuban dishes like ropa vieja and the Cuban sandwich, culturally-shared dishes such as pernil asado, and Puerto Rican dishes like mofongo.

Mofongo (Mashed, unripened plaintain with pork rinds.  I've also had it with chicken and shrimp substituted for pork)

 

With typical pork and beef heavy dishes, on this particular night we sampled a couple of seafood dishes and the must have ropa vieja.

Loved their mixed ceviche and the fact that it included mussels, which was a new experience for me as an interesting component.

Mixed ceviche

A few Side dishes:Tostones (twice-fried plantain), crisp plaintain strips,  red beans and rice

Cuban pork tamale

Anyone who knows me personally or reads this blog knows how excited I am when my protein comes with it's head and body intact!  There's no flavor or level of moisture that can be added post cooking to fish, poultry or even pork for that matter, than when cooked intact.  Check out my previous heads-on raves at Suya Joint (Nigerian Restaurant) , a day in Chinatown Boston on a Foodie Tour , and of course prawns should never lose their heads and if you stuff them with delicious leek and liver mousse, like Chef Carey Dobies at Savvor, they're magic!

I've tried the whole snapper fried with tostones, arroz congri (Cuban rice & black beans) and mofongo as take out prior to ever eating there and was happy there are no corners cut when not dining in the restaurant.  

Whole fried red snapper with arroz congri, mofongo, and tostones

You can also order it with garlic sauce as below or coconut.

The meat is so tender, juicy, and abundant, it seems you can eat from the same dish for days!

The ropa vieja (a succulent slow-cooked shredded beef dish) was fantastic.  Its balanced flavors of onion, pepper, tomato, and garlic was made all the more great by the fall apart strips of beef and tender veg.  Even still, my favorite ropa vieja was in Vero Beach, Florida at The Wave.

Check out El Oriental de Cuba on your next visit to JP!

Succulent Sundays (Centre Street Santuary): A Weekly Celebration of My Favorite Personal Food Photography

Centre Street Sanctuary

Past Executive Chef (creator of this dish): 

Tim Hopkins

Jamaica Plain, MA

Read My Full Review

Poutine

Salmon with grilled asparagus and harissa

December 2013/January 2014 Featured Tipples of the Month

I rounded the year out with a number of fantastic cocktails created by a few of my favorite bartenders in the city.

Here are just a few...

Amaro (Italian bitter liqueurs) are a part of my food triangle. They are so herbaceous, I will count them in as part of my vegetable/fruit ration...work with me!

  Below, Jill Caron of Centre Street Sanctuary is whipping up the "Bittersweet Farewell", a cocktail that she starts to make the minute I sit at her bar without my having spoken a word past "hello".

Jill Caron making a "Bittersweet Farewell"

The "Bittersweet Farewell" features Cynar, an artichoke digestivo and one of my absolute favorite Italian bitter liqueurs (next to Aperol and Campari), Pisco (a white Peruvian brandy-and one of the only brandies I enjoy), triple sec, lemon juice (for a perfect balanced acidity), and simple syrup.   

 It's one of the most well-balanced cocktails in Boston!

Jill has also created an amazing ginger cocktail called "King's Chariot", made with King's ginger liqueur, Campari, Fernet Branca, and Gran classico bitters.

A great mixture of two of my favorite flavor profiles, spicy ginger and bitter.

"King's Chariot"

Another fantastic cocktail out of Centre Street Sanctuary was created by former Sanctuary drink slinger, Kati, called 

"The Veterinarian's Special" made with Campari, Cynar, Fee Bros. grapefruit bitters, orange juice, grapefruit juice and a lime twist.

"The Veterinarian's Special"

You count on Mr. Sahil Mehta of Estragon Tapas Bar for a marvelously creative tipple that will introduce you to a new cordial!

Ladies night back in December was no different.  One sign of a brilliant bartender is genuine interest in what you actually like to drink and the flavor notes you enjoy.  Ask Sahil to make you a drink and he will immediately inquire, "What do you typically like to drink?"  "Do like like sweet, bitter, or sour cocktails?"

Answer him and get ready for a journey into an exciting, educational night of imbibing.

Sahil making the "Detente"

Cinnamon garnish

The "Detente" is made with 2 oz barrel aged Bols genever, 0.5 oz each of Green

Chartreuse and Becherovka, 0.25 oz cardamom-clove syrup, 1 egg. Freshly grated cinnamon for garnish.  

You've gotta love a good flip!  The Detente was creamy, bold, and spicy from layers of perfect baking spices (cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and Becherovka).  It would make the perfect holiday cocktail, but wouldn't be too bad on a cool-warm spring evening outdoors.

The "Detente"

This last Sahil creation was truly interesting as I'd never sampled Aveze Gentiane liqueur which is an aperitif produced from the roots of the gentian plant found in mountainous central and southern Europe.  It was created in 1929 by Emile Refouvelet.  The cut root is allowed to macerate in alcohol for 9 months and after careful addition of other plants/flowers, it is distilled and rested for a minimum of 6 months before filtration and bottling in France.

The "Maroon Beret"

Diabolique bourbon is another spirit new to my palate.  It is a Kentucky bourbon infused with natural flavors from fruits, herbs, and spices.

The Aveze and bourbon were mixed with herbaceous Green chartreuse, and spicy Trinidadian Angostura aromatic bitters with a rosemary sprig garnish to create the "Maroon Beret".

Check out one or all of these amazing concoctions on your next hunt for a great cocktail in Boston and let me know what you think!

To check out previous Featured Tipples, click here.

New & Exciting Change Comes to Centre Street Sanctuary, 365 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA

***December 31, 2013: Critical Update!  Chef Hopkins has apparently left his post at Centre Street Sanctuary abruptly over the holidays according to Owner/Operator Adam Rutstein, but no worries, his fabulous menu has survived and there are more than capable hands (including the classically trained Nick) to carry on.***
My favorite neighborhood watering hole has made a major change in the kitchen with the smart addition of Head Chef, Tim D. Hopkins!

Chef Tim Hopkins

Over the past few weeks I have had the opportunity to get to know Chef Tim through several casual conversations and one face-to-face interview.  I am excited about what his plans are for Sanctuary and so is Owner/Operator Adam Rutstein.

Chef Tim has turned the kitchen completely around...for the better.  Respectfully working with the old menu, he has thoroughly trained the kitchen staff/cooks and as a result, has elevated the dishes that existed upon his arrival.  He has the kitchen pumping out good food in a timely fashion.  Adam is proud and brags about the quickened turn around time of dishes to the table for patrons.

 The execution of such dishes as poutine (fries and gravy), fish and chips (now gluten-free with potato crusting), and steaks (extended dry aged in-house) has improved ten-fold.

Poutine

Fish and Chips

Brunch is now more than edible and instead of apologies flying from the kitchen and management to my table, delicious food did!

Mediterranean omelet: spinach, mushrooms, tomato, goat cheese served with home fries

Chef Tim's background is rooted in creative ventures from working with Chef Leah Dubois (now of Local 149), raw food goddess, at Grezzo.  The now closed Grezzo was a raw foodist's dream in the North End, focusing of beautifully creative dishes that could make any non-vegan soul a believer with dishes like "papaya steak", "mushroom lasagna", and "chicken-less salad".  
The menu was heavy on the juicing, pureeing, and marinating styles of preparation.  Chef fondly recalls a mushroom napoleon with marinated mushroom, macadamian nut puree, seaweed, and cashew sauce.  As we chat, he seems nostalgic about the place, but assured me that his moving on was simply because he "missed fire".
There's a dish that I imagine being an ode to Grezzo on Sanctuary's new menu:  Portobello veggie napoleon made with layers of portobello, roasted veggies, goat cheese and rosemary with Romesco sauce.

Grezzo was not his first veggie resto rodeo.  During his days as an art major at University of Iowa, he rendezvoused at a gourmet farm to table vegetarian restaurant in Iowa City.  He worked there for 2 years.  That is where he decided to change career plans.  He learned about rotating crops and even build green houses.

Perhaps the perfect ricotta gnocchi, luckily for us, is residual from those days as well.

Ricotta gnocchi vegetable ragout (green and red bell peppers and yellow squash) and foraged mushrooms and Romano cheese.  Can be served with or without truffle oil.

 Other vegetarian options include the fried macaroni and cheese balls served with a house made jalapeno hot sauce.  Crispy spheres stuffed with creamy, tender mac and cheese were a perfect match with the heavily spiced sauce - beware!  My friend described the dish as one that she could "eat an unfortunate amount of."  We desperately fought the urge to order more.

Fried mac and cheese balls with housemade jalapeno hot sauce

A deconstructed, of sorts, Greek salad was another meatless wonder.  Uber fresh red and green julienned bell peppers, red onion, cucumber, grape tomatoes, feta, fresh oregano, and kalamata olives is served atop a smear of feta and Greek yogurt.

Greek Salad

Now, let's talk meat!
 The chili is fabulous.  The beef chili is made with black eyed peas in lieu of classic kidney beans, onion, roasted tomato bruleed, smoky cheddar cheese with a dollop of crème fraiche and fresh herbs.

Beef chili with black eyed peas, bruleed cheddar cheese, roasted tomato, onion, creme fraiche.

The cloven wings - meaty, confit hog shanks coated in sticky, sweet, gingery Asian bbq sauce is a real filler!  A generous portion of tender shanks was more than enough for an entree.

Cloven wings- Asian bbq confit hog shanks

  
 Applewood smoking has become a central theme for handling meats on the new menu.  The Applewood house-smoked roasted duck breast over sweet potato puree and cranberry duck jus.  It can also be served with the Asian bbq sauce mentioned above.

Applewood house-smoked roasted duck breast over sweet potato puree and cranberry duck jus

Fall away braised, dry-aged short rib with compound butter (butter with red wine, shallots, and garlic) that imparts serious, complex flavor to the protein over tender collards served with apricot marmalade for a perfect balance of sweet, savory, and acid.

One evening, the generous, lovely Abbey, Sanctuary's Pastry Chef, sent a decadent mini Black Forest cake:

Chef Tim is a man of many passions.  The one he shares most is his love of creating "comfort foods, done well".  One that is just as tender is a creation he lovingly calls 'magic' as he glow with pride, his daughter.  "My baby is magic!", he states as ask for a glimpse into his personal life and passions.  
His biggest influence in the kitchen was his granny.  He grew up with her Irish, German, and Dutch influences and his grandfather's Dutch and Scottish influences.  His grandmother's recipe for O'Brien potatoes (home fries) was a simple dish made with sliced potatoes and soy sauce, smothered in cheese.

He loves southern food, with plans to serve fried oysters (New Orleans style) with a rémoulade or a chipotle aioli.  He exclaims, "There is love that goes into each of my dishes".  Yes chef, it's truly apparent!

Head over to Centre Street Sanctuary for a tasty bite with new attitude! 

Let me know what you think!

Recent Tasty Bites Around Town: Tapas @ Estragon, Soups & Seafood @ Centre Street Sanctuary, Mussels @ The Ledge Kitchen & Drinks Dorchester

On nights when I'm reviewing new cocktails at Boston's best bars or just out with the girls, small bites are usually in order.  Here are a few of my favorite dishes around town.

Estragon Tapas Bar South End

I arrived at Estragon to sample and review the amazing Sahil Mehta's gin cocktail repertoire (read review, here).  It was my first visit to Estragon so I decided to check out a few tapas as well.  I was pleasantly surprised with the options Chef/Co-Owner Julio de Haro, of Madrid, created and with the food itself.  Lara Egger, the other owner, wrote the cocktail menu reads like a book of poetry.  Lara is a writer who recently received the Arts & Letters 2013 Rumi Prize for Poetry and wrote Estragon's whimsical cocktail menu.  It includes such descriptions as: 

Jack Gilbert: "Feeling bittersweet? This mix of Cava & Aperol gets its edge from our house “Fire-Cider”. Most champagne cocktails are ballet; ours is burlesque."  

OR

Elderflower Sour: "From the Alps to the South End, elderflower’s peachy floral notes are paired with our house citrus blend for a libation that is more balanced than your average unicyclist."

The most amazing tapa of the night?  The Pringá.  A moist, flavorful, tender mixture of beef shank, pork belly, chorizo, and bone marrow spread over grilled Iggy's bread!  The tender beef, salty pork belly, spice of the hearty chorizo, and corpulence of the bone marrow all impart beautiful flavor and texture to the dish.

The Pringá

I really enjoyed the Queso de Cabra con Tomate, warm goat's cheese and tomato on toasted bread.  There was a generous portion of warm, soft cheese spread over bright, thinly sliced tomatoes.  So simple and delicious! 

Queso de Cabra con Tomate

Last, but not the least of the evening, was another simple, yet amazing dish: Setas al Ajillo, sauteed rosemary-garlic mushrooms.  Tender, meaty thick sliced mushrooms were roasted with high quality olive oil, seasoned with finesse with rosemary and garlic.  Pure heaven!

Centre Street Sanctuary Jamaica Plain

I've reviewed Centre Street Sanctuary on a number of occasions now:  dinner review, featured cocktails and more.  I will soon interview their new chef as well!

The Portuguese kale soup was hearty and perfect for the impending fall weather.  It is made with Tuscan kale, chourico, split peas, yellow potatoes, and bread for dipping.  A perfect comfort soup, it tasted like a bit of home.  

Me being the cauliflower fanatic I am, of course I ordered up the cauliflower soup.  It's the warm version to my favorite cold soup in Maryland at The Tasting Room in Frederick only with cheese!  The soup was hot and with a richness that lingers on the palate.  Made with fresh cauliflower and smoked gouda, which I think is quite original, it was topped with roasted cauliflower spears, toasted walnuts, chives, oil, and grated gouda.  So good!

Last night, I sampled the crispy fish and chips.  The dish is made with potato-encrusted, lightly fried hake, tartar sauce, crisp, hand cut fries, and lemon.  Though the potato drench is gluten free, it is a bit heavy and does not adhere to the fish as well.  I find textural issues with most gluten-free substitutes.  Owner Adam and new Chef Tim tell me it was an incidental finding via an improper order. The hake is flaky and humongous!  It's overall a good dish.

Ledge Kitchen & Drinks 

Lower Mills Dorchester

I was pretty disappointed when I realized my favorite mussels in Boston had been taken off the menu at Ledge (read about them, here), but I was pleasantly surprised when the replacement dish was not a total bust.

Spicy chorizo mussels with mushroom, red bell peppers, yellow squash, zucchini, and potato.  Perfect autumnal dish!