Introducing the first Brookline, MA restaurant to truly steal my heart...and it's a chain restaurant (gasp!)
Barcelona Tapas & Wine Bar is the absolute antithesis to what comes to mind when the phrase "chain restaurant" is spoken. Being a Brookline resident for almost four years, I am the first to say: "I live here, but rarely eat here." In fact, this was the very statement that moved Chef Jim Solomon of The Fireplace ( ) to message me with an invitation to check out his New England grille. Jim's menu has remained a favorite Washington Square restaurant of mine ever since as described in my reviews here and here.
Barcelona, a chain of tapas and wine bar restaurants in swanky locales such as Inman Park Atlanta, Greenwich, CT, and the original Barcelona in South Norwalk, CT opened in Brookline, MA a few days after the New Year. According to Eater Boston, a rep for this location says it will be a "more aggressive" menu if compared to the Connecticut locations.
This beautifully rustic yet modern wall-to-wall wood surrounding the immense dining spaces with it's pitchy casting spilling out over the even more impressive patio space. I imagine sunny days with spectacular meals between friends or first dates on the patio when warmer months finally grace us with their presence.
We began at the bar where there was much enthusiasm from bartender staff when greeting us and "learning our names", but a lackluster response when it came time for us to finally order our cocktails. I attempted every trick under the sun (which in this city is rarely ever necessary at an "upscale" bar) including closing and placing my menu down and attempting to grab their attention with eye contact. We could barely grab their attention long enough to utter a word. The clues went unnoticed as organizing new place settings were apparently more dyer than serving customers. All of this with only 4-7 people around the pretty expansive bar. I found this annoying and a tad bit ridiculous so after we finally received our drinks (mine being an beautiful Bourbon Spice Rack), I urged my friend to grab a table rather than endure starters at the bar.
Warm loaves of bread, curated half baked from a local bakery and finished in house, are offered generously and served with golden, quality olive oil.
Moving into the main dining area near the open charcuterie and cheese bar was a definite vibe change. Our servers Emily and James took great care to introduce us to the menu and frequently checked in on our progress and comfort. They were personable, attentive, and genuine as was management.
The Cabra Romero, goat's cheese wedges with rind-side fresh rosemary needle rub was stunning- a slice of creamy, earthly delight! Smooth and creamy on the palate, the cheese was complemented well by aromatic rosemary which visually reminiscent of small, triangular pineapple garnish.
Grilled toasts with a beautifully smooth, savory chicken liver mousse was topped with an uninvited guest which my palate read as an aggressive heap of caramelized onion, but what the menu reads as balsamic pickles. I removed the topping to reveal a crispy-edged, chewy-centered toast slathered generously with mousse. A nice blend of textures and balanced flavors- sweet, acid, crisp, spongy.
Because I can barely stand even the thought of black truffle oil, the hanger steak with black truffle vinaigrette- ordered by my friend- was a major shock to my system! I swear my heart rate quickened and my face skewed enough to warrant an apology from my dear friend. Being that she is a former food editor for a major internationally-known publication and television series, my reaction lead to a discussion on truffles. I would compare my aversion to truffle oil, but not necessarily fresh shaved truffles to my distaste for fennel seed but not shaved bulbs as they are more mild in flavor.
I adore rabbit, but was a bit apprehensive about ordering Barcelona's braised rabbit because the menu stated it would be served with green olive, but to my surprise and relief, there wasn't one sliver or even an essence of green olive in either the stock (chicken) or hidden in seasoning (as was suggested).
A generous portion of sweetbreads a la plancha (thymus gland) was prepared medium to maintain ultimate moisture and richness and served with the perfect amount of acid (lemon juice), parsley and rosemary. I adore sweetbreads! They can be made from a variety of offal: brain, kidney, thymus, etc. with my absolute favorite being the thymus gland.
The most amazing dish of the evening was the lobster fideos, skillet-toasted medium grain pasta with tasty crispy bits that Chef Steven Brand (who presented the dish at out table) encouraged us to scrape from the skillet. The fideos were mixed with a wonderfully spicy, peppery tomato-based sauce, a generous dollop of rich 'crema', and sweet chunks of lobster tail. It was one of those dishes that really stick with you - one I have been craving for the past two weeks and can't wait to have again! I strongly recommend ordering more than one for the table.
Welcome to my hood Barcelona!
Barcelona Wine & Tapas
1700 Beacon Street
Brookline, MA 02446
