New & Exciting Change Comes to Centre Street Sanctuary, 365 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA

***December 31, 2013: Critical Update!  Chef Hopkins has apparently left his post at Centre Street Sanctuary abruptly over the holidays according to Owner/Operator Adam Rutstein, but no worries, his fabulous menu has survived and there are more than capable hands (including the classically trained Nick) to carry on.***
My favorite neighborhood watering hole has made a major change in the kitchen with the smart addition of Head Chef, Tim D. Hopkins!

Chef Tim Hopkins

Over the past few weeks I have had the opportunity to get to know Chef Tim through several casual conversations and one face-to-face interview.  I am excited about what his plans are for Sanctuary and so is Owner/Operator Adam Rutstein.

Chef Tim has turned the kitchen completely around...for the better.  Respectfully working with the old menu, he has thoroughly trained the kitchen staff/cooks and as a result, has elevated the dishes that existed upon his arrival.  He has the kitchen pumping out good food in a timely fashion.  Adam is proud and brags about the quickened turn around time of dishes to the table for patrons.

 The execution of such dishes as poutine (fries and gravy), fish and chips (now gluten-free with potato crusting), and steaks (extended dry aged in-house) has improved ten-fold.

Poutine

Fish and Chips

Brunch is now more than edible and instead of apologies flying from the kitchen and management to my table, delicious food did!

Mediterranean omelet: spinach, mushrooms, tomato, goat cheese served with home fries

Chef Tim's background is rooted in creative ventures from working with Chef Leah Dubois (now of Local 149), raw food goddess, at Grezzo.  The now closed Grezzo was a raw foodist's dream in the North End, focusing of beautifully creative dishes that could make any non-vegan soul a believer with dishes like "papaya steak", "mushroom lasagna", and "chicken-less salad".  
The menu was heavy on the juicing, pureeing, and marinating styles of preparation.  Chef fondly recalls a mushroom napoleon with marinated mushroom, macadamian nut puree, seaweed, and cashew sauce.  As we chat, he seems nostalgic about the place, but assured me that his moving on was simply because he "missed fire".
There's a dish that I imagine being an ode to Grezzo on Sanctuary's new menu:  Portobello veggie napoleon made with layers of portobello, roasted veggies, goat cheese and rosemary with Romesco sauce.

Grezzo was not his first veggie resto rodeo.  During his days as an art major at University of Iowa, he rendezvoused at a gourmet farm to table vegetarian restaurant in Iowa City.  He worked there for 2 years.  That is where he decided to change career plans.  He learned about rotating crops and even build green houses.

Perhaps the perfect ricotta gnocchi, luckily for us, is residual from those days as well.

Ricotta gnocchi vegetable ragout (green and red bell peppers and yellow squash) and foraged mushrooms and Romano cheese.  Can be served with or without truffle oil.

 Other vegetarian options include the fried macaroni and cheese balls served with a house made jalapeno hot sauce.  Crispy spheres stuffed with creamy, tender mac and cheese were a perfect match with the heavily spiced sauce - beware!  My friend described the dish as one that she could "eat an unfortunate amount of."  We desperately fought the urge to order more.

Fried mac and cheese balls with housemade jalapeno hot sauce

A deconstructed, of sorts, Greek salad was another meatless wonder.  Uber fresh red and green julienned bell peppers, red onion, cucumber, grape tomatoes, feta, fresh oregano, and kalamata olives is served atop a smear of feta and Greek yogurt.

Greek Salad

Now, let's talk meat!
 The chili is fabulous.  The beef chili is made with black eyed peas in lieu of classic kidney beans, onion, roasted tomato bruleed, smoky cheddar cheese with a dollop of crème fraiche and fresh herbs.

Beef chili with black eyed peas, bruleed cheddar cheese, roasted tomato, onion, creme fraiche.

The cloven wings - meaty, confit hog shanks coated in sticky, sweet, gingery Asian bbq sauce is a real filler!  A generous portion of tender shanks was more than enough for an entree.

Cloven wings- Asian bbq confit hog shanks

  
 Applewood smoking has become a central theme for handling meats on the new menu.  The Applewood house-smoked roasted duck breast over sweet potato puree and cranberry duck jus.  It can also be served with the Asian bbq sauce mentioned above.

Applewood house-smoked roasted duck breast over sweet potato puree and cranberry duck jus

Fall away braised, dry-aged short rib with compound butter (butter with red wine, shallots, and garlic) that imparts serious, complex flavor to the protein over tender collards served with apricot marmalade for a perfect balance of sweet, savory, and acid.

One evening, the generous, lovely Abbey, Sanctuary's Pastry Chef, sent a decadent mini Black Forest cake:

Chef Tim is a man of many passions.  The one he shares most is his love of creating "comfort foods, done well".  One that is just as tender is a creation he lovingly calls 'magic' as he glow with pride, his daughter.  "My baby is magic!", he states as ask for a glimpse into his personal life and passions.  
His biggest influence in the kitchen was his granny.  He grew up with her Irish, German, and Dutch influences and his grandfather's Dutch and Scottish influences.  His grandmother's recipe for O'Brien potatoes (home fries) was a simple dish made with sliced potatoes and soy sauce, smothered in cheese.

He loves southern food, with plans to serve fried oysters (New Orleans style) with a rémoulade or a chipotle aioli.  He exclaims, "There is love that goes into each of my dishes".  Yes chef, it's truly apparent!

Head over to Centre Street Sanctuary for a tasty bite with new attitude! 

Let me know what you think!

Recent Tasty Bites Around Town: Tapas @ Estragon, Soups & Seafood @ Centre Street Sanctuary, Mussels @ The Ledge Kitchen & Drinks Dorchester

On nights when I'm reviewing new cocktails at Boston's best bars or just out with the girls, small bites are usually in order.  Here are a few of my favorite dishes around town.

Estragon Tapas Bar South End

I arrived at Estragon to sample and review the amazing Sahil Mehta's gin cocktail repertoire (read review, here).  It was my first visit to Estragon so I decided to check out a few tapas as well.  I was pleasantly surprised with the options Chef/Co-Owner Julio de Haro, of Madrid, created and with the food itself.  Lara Egger, the other owner, wrote the cocktail menu reads like a book of poetry.  Lara is a writer who recently received the Arts & Letters 2013 Rumi Prize for Poetry and wrote Estragon's whimsical cocktail menu.  It includes such descriptions as: 

Jack Gilbert: "Feeling bittersweet? This mix of Cava & Aperol gets its edge from our house “Fire-Cider”. Most champagne cocktails are ballet; ours is burlesque."  

OR

Elderflower Sour: "From the Alps to the South End, elderflower’s peachy floral notes are paired with our house citrus blend for a libation that is more balanced than your average unicyclist."

The most amazing tapa of the night?  The Pringá.  A moist, flavorful, tender mixture of beef shank, pork belly, chorizo, and bone marrow spread over grilled Iggy's bread!  The tender beef, salty pork belly, spice of the hearty chorizo, and corpulence of the bone marrow all impart beautiful flavor and texture to the dish.

The Pringá

I really enjoyed the Queso de Cabra con Tomate, warm goat's cheese and tomato on toasted bread.  There was a generous portion of warm, soft cheese spread over bright, thinly sliced tomatoes.  So simple and delicious! 

Queso de Cabra con Tomate

Last, but not the least of the evening, was another simple, yet amazing dish: Setas al Ajillo, sauteed rosemary-garlic mushrooms.  Tender, meaty thick sliced mushrooms were roasted with high quality olive oil, seasoned with finesse with rosemary and garlic.  Pure heaven!

Centre Street Sanctuary Jamaica Plain

I've reviewed Centre Street Sanctuary on a number of occasions now:  dinner review, featured cocktails and more.  I will soon interview their new chef as well!

The Portuguese kale soup was hearty and perfect for the impending fall weather.  It is made with Tuscan kale, chourico, split peas, yellow potatoes, and bread for dipping.  A perfect comfort soup, it tasted like a bit of home.  

Me being the cauliflower fanatic I am, of course I ordered up the cauliflower soup.  It's the warm version to my favorite cold soup in Maryland at The Tasting Room in Frederick only with cheese!  The soup was hot and with a richness that lingers on the palate.  Made with fresh cauliflower and smoked gouda, which I think is quite original, it was topped with roasted cauliflower spears, toasted walnuts, chives, oil, and grated gouda.  So good!

Last night, I sampled the crispy fish and chips.  The dish is made with potato-encrusted, lightly fried hake, tartar sauce, crisp, hand cut fries, and lemon.  Though the potato drench is gluten free, it is a bit heavy and does not adhere to the fish as well.  I find textural issues with most gluten-free substitutes.  Owner Adam and new Chef Tim tell me it was an incidental finding via an improper order. The hake is flaky and humongous!  It's overall a good dish.

Ledge Kitchen & Drinks 

Lower Mills Dorchester

I was pretty disappointed when I realized my favorite mussels in Boston had been taken off the menu at Ledge (read about them, here), but I was pleasantly surprised when the replacement dish was not a total bust.

Spicy chorizo mussels with mushroom, red bell peppers, yellow squash, zucchini, and potato.  Perfect autumnal dish!

 

Simple, Yummy Bites at Simpli Bar & Bites, 3840 Washington Street, Jamaica Plain, MA

 

Walking into Simpli Bar & Bites approximately two weeks after its opening, my friend and I felt like Norm walking into Cheers.  Mike, the manager, was warm and welcoming, as were the guests he was chatting up near the front door.  

He immediately wanted to show off their beautiful soft wood deck which featured hanging flowering plants, cozy corners, and dim lighting.  Being that the summer is quickly slipping away and we were there on one of our particularly cool and rainy early evenings, I immediately inquired about heating lamps to extend outdoor dining through fall.  Mike assured us they were seriously considering this modified design.

Outdoor patio. Photo Credit: Simpli Bar & Bites

It would be extremely wise to do so, as the interior dining space is small and can be a bit awkward if you happen not to be a social being.  To the far right of the space, upon walking into the front door, is a large "shared table" space which would certainly make for a feeling of self-indulgence should it be you and one other person, or perhaps a feeling of uncomfortableness (in my case for sure) if another party were to join.  There are 3, maybe 4 high tops against the front windows and approximately 10-12 seats at the bar with great views of the food and cocktail prep areas.  There is also a narrow ledge at which to stand on the other glass wall (parking lot side) leading up to the outdoor dining space.

On my first visit, the space was not full in the least.  On my second visit, there  was very minimal space, yet I did not feel overcrowded or in the way of the staff.

The staff appears to be absolutely pleased with their positions and are uber friendly and open to conversation well beyond receiving and preparing and order.  I mean, really, check this guy out...there's no way he isn't happy at work :0)

The staff in general were amazing with Chef Andy working it out in his limited sized kitchen.  I was glad to see and experience the pride he had in having say in the menu design and creation.  I also think it's a smart idea to poll diners on Autumn suggestions, whether dishes or ingredients that patrons would appreciate.  It gives diners a feeling of relevance and as a new neighborhood spot, that is important. Our server Kristen rocked!

Chef Andy. Photo Credit: Simply Bar & Bites

Chef Andy truly impressed me most with his passion.  He also blew me away with his preparation of the lamb chops adorned with a sprig of fresh rosemary.  They were so tender, so succulent, so well seasoned and delicious, that my friend whom has long before sworn off lamb actually enjoyed them!

Simpli Bar & Bites certainly elevates what they can with the space in which they are working.  This MUST be commended even though the menu's skeleton is simple and concise.  The quality of food, presented specifically by Chef Andy, is quite good and I truly believe we will see greater product as they tweak the opening kinks.

The pork belly sliders featured tender, meaty bites of pork belly with tangy slaw and a drizzle of BBQ sauce on a lovely bun.  The pork belly is seasoned and slow-cooked overnight and crisped the following day.  There's nothing like seeing the gleam in the eyes of a chef who takes pride in the proper preparation of a fantastic protein.  This light was very apparent in Chef's eyes as we chatted about the meal.

As simple as it may seem, the pretzel pucks, served with spicy mustard, were amazingly good!

While not all items are housemade, the kitchen pushes out good dishes with a personal touch via Chef Andy.  Pride is preparation and presentation is obvious, even before picking his brain and being directly exposed to his enthusiasm.  The server staff was just as enthusiastic and willing to share!

Slow cooked pork belly flatbread with BBQ sauce, red onion, and mozzarella sans the listed arugula.

Now on to the drinks...

Jess, our bartender for the evening was "simpli" amazing!  I am an avid bourbon/scotch/whisk(e)y drinker and she provided a tasting/comparison of the spirit that I am familiar with alongside those that I was not.  Blanton's bourbon, with its spicy vanilla notes, was my "gateway bourbon" back in the early 2000s so I get pretty excited when I see it on any shelf and I ask for a neat order whenever it catches my eye.

I remember ordering it after being seduced by the ornate bottle.

I also sampled a lovely Willett bourbon.  Willett's, bottle #247 out of #281 was very Knob Creek-esque with its cherry nose and smooth finish.

It was also my first time sampling Berkshire's Corn Whiskey.  The most interesting note mid-palate was reminiscent of black tea.  Very interesting and great when served neat.

I was most impressed with Jess' offering of Rogue Pink Spruce Gin...yes, Gin!  For those who follow my blog, or know me personally, I am always (and rarely) surprised when I am able to actually stomach a gin.  Rogue's gin was smooth, it was more floral than juniper-y.  I found it to be a bit tropical with notes of pineapple, coconut, and baking spice.  It was beautiful! 

Rogue's Dead Man Whiskey was strong and punchy!

 
While I was being adventurous, I also sampled a beer (not usually my thing).  Cisco Brewers' (Nantucket, MA) Grey Lady beer (4% ABV) was floral with lavender and light citrus notes. Mixed with blueberry triple a vodka it's called a "Blue-haired Lady" at Simpli Bar & Bites, and a "Red-haired Lady" with red triple "a" vodka.

I will write specifically about the few lovely cocktails I was able to sample from the evening in a follow-up post.

I was extremely excited to note that the bar was stocked with local spirits companies (Grand Ten, Berkshire, Tito's, Sons of Liberty, etc.)  Glad to see the camaraderie!

I certainly enjoyed the El Diablo:  Anejo Tequila, lemon juice, lime juice, and hellfire bitters and the House Red Sangria was decent.

Head over to Simpli Bar & Bites as they plan to change up the menu soon.  I, for one, am excited about what's to come.

Centre Street Sanctuary, 365 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, MA

A Sanctuary for hungry, thirsty Urbanites...

Photo Credit: Centre Street Sanctuary

It's always exciting to fall in love and believe in a new neighborhood spot.  Centre Street Sanctuary has been just that for me during the past 3 weeks of my return to Boston.  I am rooting for Adam and his brilliant staff as they embark on upon the ending of their second month.  Service is always prompt and comes with a smile.  I've had Jimmy as a server on a couple of occasions and he is never without a smile and a skip in his step!  If they continue providing high quality service of high quality products, which I have no doubt they will, Sanctuary can do without my cheering them on.

Built on the old campus of the Blessed Sacrament Church, the space and atmosphere is comfortable and inviting with beautiful re-purposed wood foraged from churches around Massachusetts (including one in Watertown).  

The bar top, as well as select high-tops, are constructed from church doors and the base from a choir box.  Near the middle of the bar, you will notice the door's antique-polished hinge and ceiling/floor lock.  It's quite beautiful.  
There is a pew in the waiting space and beautiful stained glass windows flanking the wall behind the bar.  Plenty of light seeps in through the ceiling to floor window in the dining area around the bar, but not so much that it's a bother, thanks to the slight tint.

Bar.  Photo credit: Centre Street Sanctuary

Centre Street Sanctuary is a craft beer enthusiasts dream with their extensive list and knowledgeable staff.  It's the type of place that beer curious folks, like myself, can go to learn about Boston's favorite summer beverage.

I, personally, am a cocktail enthusiast and there is nothing more exciting to me than a perfectly balanced concoction.  Sanctuary's cocktail program is diverse with trendy beer cocktails, Manhattans, and Old-fashioneds.  I have found over the years that bars with cordials licensing tend to churn out some of THE most creative cocktails.  Sanctuary lives up to my expectation of such. 

Not a cocktail aficionado?  Just share your taste profile preference(s) with the bartenders or servers and they can create something particularly palate-pleasing.  It's always fun to leave with a new drink in your arsenal.  

I was in the mood for a Campari-based cocktail one evening and Justin made a Tuesday's Folly for me - made with fresh, muddled cucumber, grapefruit bitters, Citron Svedka, and Campari. The original has Aperol instead of the Campari, but Justin generously accommodated my Campari craving.  It was a lovely balance of fresh, delicate cucumber with bitter notes.
The Tuesday's Folly will be a featured drink during weekend brunch which is coming soon!

Tuesday's Folly

"Untitled".  A lovely cocktail made by Jill as a spin on an Old-Fashioned.  Jack Daniels Honey, Luxardo cherry liqueur, Fernet Branca, Orange bitters.

I am especially taken with the Bittersweet Farewell cocktail as I've been on a bitters kick for almost a month.  It is made with Pisco (the only brandy I actually drink- a white Peruvian brandy), Cynar (an Italian bitter liqueur, Triple Sec, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup, Orange Bitters, and a lime rim.

These cocktails washed down some pretty fantastic eats thanks to Chef Chris and his culinary team!   
Cue my poutine soapbox...I have found it nearly impossible to find a good poutine outside of Montreal.  I've said this in a number of older posts (see Montreal post here), but it is true and very much worth repeating.  
So imagine my surprise when I sampled Sanctuary's Fries and Gravy - perfect, hand cut fries, flavorful, peppery brown gravy, melty cheese curds, house made, smoky bacon bits, parsley, and scallions.  All of the key components were there!  I was also reassured when the owner, Adam, shared that a gentleman from Quebec was quite pleased with the dish as well, stating, "They are almost as good as in Quebec."  Clearly he could not fully concede that they ware absolutely as good, but I certainly will gladly say so!

Fries and Gravy (Poutine)

The curried local mussels were plump and fresh.  The sauce is made with Madras curry and coconut milk.  I expected a bit more body to the sauce because of the coconut milk and heat behind the Madras curry.  The dish was served with rings of tender, sweet bell red bell peppers, onion, cilantro, and toasted bread.

Curried local mussels

The lamb satay was served with a nice house made tzatziki with chunks of cucumber, yogurt, garlic, and a milder than anticipated harissa sauce.

Lamb satay.

The salmon entree was perfect!  You have a choice of three sauces: tomato fondue, harissa, or horseradish aioli.  All entrees come with a choice of various sauces and one side dish.  To accompany the 8 oz North Atlantic salmon, I ordered the harissa and roasted asparagus.  The generous portion of fish was cooked to a perfect medium with crisp skin and well-seasoned flaky flesh.

The pan-roasted duck breast, also a generous portion, bore crispy skin and tender flesh.  It rested upon a bed of quinoa hash which I found intriguing as it was quite unique - golden quinoa tossed with tender breakfast potato-style spuds, red bell peppers, and onion.

Duck breast over quinoa hash.

 

The duck comes with a choice of sweet and sour, garlic and chili oil, or black garlic sauce.

The desserts were irresistible.  The only thing I did not sample was the ice cream of which there is a homemade vanilla and a homemade maple bacon.

The vanilla bean crème brûlée was light and creamy with a heavy sugar crust - just the way I like it.  It is served with chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies.

Being a huge fan of fruit and herbal combinations, I really enjoyed the strawberry shortcake.  Macerated strawberry slices were tossed with chopped, fresh basil and nestled between spongecake with St. Germain and whipped mascarpone.

Chocolate lovers must order the Guinness chocolate bundt cake topped with sweet whipped mascarpone and maraschino cherry with oozing chocolate in the center and at the base!

Centre Street Sanctuary, with its amazing staff is exactly what the neighborhood ordered and I expect it will thrive and become a staple or many years to come.

Be on the look out for weekend brunch!  Word is there will be 4-5 varieties of Bloody Mary's and create-your-own omelets!

Please send any corrections via the contact area at the bottom of the site.  Thanks.