You'll miss a lot if you never look up while walking the streets of NYC.
I feel I've seen all of the oldies but goodies having grown up not far outside of the city, but of course there's always something popping up.
However, I can't help but feel it's such a rookie/tourist move and can be quite annoying to those of us who've seen these things one million times and have places to be.
I say this in the least off-putting and unpretentious manner possible #BecauseTokyo...
I became one of those "looker-upers" while visiting Tokyo on a solo visit for Birthday #36.
My first night out in the bustling, stacked, brightly lit city, I learned that the bar or restaurant you may be searching for could very well be on the 9th floor of a building-possibly just between an eye doctor and a karaoke studio.
On my second visit to
Bar Benfiddich バー ベンフィディック, even my uber driver missed it.
Thank goodness I have somewhat of a photographic memory!
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| Bar Benfiddich バー ベンフィディック was atop this building on the 9th floor. Traveling on the elevator there is reminiscent of heading to a doctor's appointment. |
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| Building directory near the elevator. |
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| Photo Credit: Hiroyasu Kayama/Bar Benfiddich Facebook Page |
Travel to the 9th floor and enter the door to the left. The untreated wood and low seating is reminiscent of a classic, rustic dry sauna.
Geometrically simple furniture allows for nestling in a dark corner with either friends or a lover or sitting at the bar to watch the magic happen.
You can find out how I discovered this hidden overproof oasis by reading the first installment of this 3 part installment:
Bar Benfiddich is not a place where you go to slam sloppy sips.
You come here to intellectualize the art of making a cocktail. Fresh/dried herbs and other plant life dot the back bar.
A mortar and pestle makes an appearance about every 3rd drink ordered by patrons.
Heavy, iron tea kettles boast strong brews and some cocktails look like little aquariums filled with gin in lieu of water.
The lead barman (Hiroyasu Kayama) and his apprentice (Takeshi Matsuzawa), both dapper in their dress will somehow overcome the language barrier and treat you as a guest in their home.
There's a comfort level in the space that dashes any uncertainty if you're not fluent in Japanese.
Hiroyasu and Takeshi are more than fluent in hospitality, warmth, kindness, and dedicated service to ensure you have one of the best times and experiences of your life.
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| Hiroyasu Kayama |
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| Takeshi Matsuzawa |
As any great bartender, Hiroyasu was sure to learn my favorite flavor profiles and followed suite, even exceeding beyond my imagination.
On my first visit, he served a couple of bourbon+amaro drinks...my favorite combination (especially when a new artist is making me a cocktail).
On my second visit, he discovered my love of Campari (and all things Amaro) and proceeded to make his own Campari from dried herbs on the bar (some of which came from his own garden).
The result?
A spectacularly bitter cocktail made even more special by watching the deliberation and execution of its base herb, fresh grapefruit, simple syrup, etc.
My only mistake was thinking I could handle tasting dried gentian root at the behest of Hiroyasu.
Now...I am a bonafide, hardcore bitters lover and when I request a cocktail be made by a bartender who doesn't know me, the more bitter, the better, but this root took me to a place from which I've yet to recover!
Even typing it in this moment takes me to a scary place.
However, the cocktail was perfectly balanced-bitter, a hint of sweetness, nice acidity.
He also made this little bitter cordial with the aforementioned root, concentrated and blended with a more dark rockfruit-forward amaro and Absinthe.
A lovely "tea' was brewed for another patron during my final visit to Bar Benfiddich (my birthday evening).
Ironically, one of the gentlemen had just returned home from Boston and spoke fairly good English. He acted as a translator between myself and Hiroyasu.
Also expect to be impressed with vintage bottles of aperitifs, digestifs, and spirits.
Here are two beautifully rugged bottles of Fernet-Branca procured from a subterranean European space:
Hiroyasu showed presented a lovely bottle of vintage Absinthe. This particular bottle was bottled/created by Suntory Beverage company, a Japanese based distiller who also produces some of the best Japanese whisky. Most of us are aware that the Japanese are major players in whisky consumption and the spike in its production starting in the 1920s (see my article covering the history of Japanese whisky, here).
Hiroyasu shared that Absinthe was highly produced in Japan several decades ago.
Hiroyasu has also created his own bottle of Absinthe from herbs in his personal garden based on a recipe printed in the "Nouveau traité de la fabrication des liqueurs"
Rough Translation:
New Treaty of the manufacture of liquors according to the latest processes, J. Fritsch, engineer-chemist."
(French and foreign liquors. Essences. Waters and scented spirits. Syrups. Aperitifs. Bitters. Absinthes. Vermouth. Liqueur wines. Fruits in brandy. Spirituous fruit juices. Preserved spirits, etc.)
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| Hiroyasu with his bottle of Absinthe |
To my great surprise, it was coming up on last call, a small group of friends walk in and sit at a benched table adjacent to the bar and I'd just asked Hiroyasu where he gets his favorite bowl of Tsukemen.
After serving the table, he took off his tuxedo jacket and silk tie and led me through the streets about 6-7 blocks away to Yasube.
He ordered a bowl for me at the vending machine, wished me a happy birthday and returned to his bar to tend to his guests. It was one of the best, most sincere gifts I've ever received!
When in search of a cocktail bar in Tokyo, please make your way to Bar Benfiddich!
I promise, you won't be disappointed!
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| Photo Credit |
