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| Me in front of Fuuji in Shinjuku |
While we didn't all speak English, we spoke food and wine and booze and culture and hospitality.
Funny thing is, I've learned that these are universal languages, no matter the country or continent.
These are the languages of passion, of community, of delights and joy.
The sign behind me in the picture above translates to
"The Lucky Traveler" and I am lucky indeed!
When people ask why I love ramen so much, I typically go into a rambling oration about how diverse and delicious it is and can be. There are so many styles and types of ramen soups from their aromatic soup bases to the noodle shape and diameter, to the way in which you consume it (e.g. Tsukemen where you dip the noodles into a thick broth).
You can check out most of the ramen I've enjoyed (or not) over the past 12 months...from Paris to Miami to NYC to Tokyo, here
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| Me sipping on a Yoichi Single Malt Japanese Whisky on the balcony of the condo I rented during my stay in Shibuya |
Ramen is historically Chinese in origin. Over 100 years ago, post-war Chinese immigrants moved into Japan. They brought over their, mainly Shoyu-style of ramen.
A bowl of ramen is made up of 4 parts: the broth (a few types discussed below), the Noodle (briefly discussed below), tare, and toppings.
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| Totto Ramen Boston |
In its simplest form, there are four styles of ramen but dozens of regional specialties.
The tare or kaeshi is the flavor bomb placed at the bottom of your bowl who's composition basically determines the style of ramen you are about to enjoy.
The tare or kaeshi is the flavor bomb placed at the bottom of your bowl who's composition basically determines the style of ramen you are about to enjoy.
1. Shio (Salt-based)
2. Shoyu (Soy sauce-based)
3. Miso (Fermented soy bean based)
4. Tonkotsu (pork bone soup-based)
My primary goal for this trip to Tokyo was to eat all of the notable ramen I possibly could and there are literally thousands of shops in Tokyo alone!
I reached out to Ramen Expert and TV Personality in Tokyo Brian MacDuckston of Ramen Adventures.
What makes him an expert you ask?
He has sampled & reviewed over 2000 bowls around Japan and a few in the U.S, with the vast number in Tokyo of course.
He has sampled & reviewed over 2000 bowls around Japan and a few in the U.S, with the vast number in Tokyo of course.
Check out his blog.
It AND his ramen tour is a must when visiting Tokyo!
He also has a book available on Amazon in both English and Japanese.
Brian is a San Francisco native, an American expat, having lived in Tokyo for 9 years after planning only a one year visit to teach English.
He speaks fluent Japanese and is celebrated throughout the ramen world in both Tokyo and at Toranoana in Osaka where he teaches an extensive one day ramen course. Students learn to prepare the soup and also hand-make noodles.
Brian's work and knowledge has been featured on Ramen 道(a weekly TV show on TBS in Japan), News Room Tokyo, Food and Wine (Where to Eat in Tokyo), Newsweek Japan, Travel & Leisure, The New York Times (Frugal Traveler Matt Gross).
I count myself amongst the lucky to 1. Have Brian as my private ramen tour guide in Tokyo and 2. To catch him just before he left town on another ramen adventure...perfect timing!
I count myself amongst the lucky to 1. Have Brian as my private ramen tour guide in Tokyo and 2. To catch him just before he left town on another ramen adventure...perfect timing!
In Tokyo, the Shoyu ramen tends to include either chicken or pork broth and toppings such as scallions and/or bamboo shoots, roasted pork slices (chashu), nori (a sheet of toasted seaweed) and some form of dried fish (which is abundant in Tokyo ramen)- most notably katsuobushi (shaved bonito flakes) or niboshi (dried Japanese sardines which are found in abundance in the Japanese diet).
The dried fish lends the umami flavor (smoky, fishy, funky), it's powerful and explosive.
The Tonkotsu broth is built from boiling pork bones, collagen and fat over high heat for hours. Its consistency is thus, typically, thick with flecks of fat and rich flavors. Some shops will add chicken stock.
Tsukemen (pronounced skay-men) was a new discovery for me. Plump noodles are served cooked and chilled on a platter next to a bowl of gravy like 'broth'. The noodles are to be dipped into the broth and devoured. Often, the broth is topped with dried fish powder which adds a shock of flavor when mixed in.
The dried fish lends the umami flavor (smoky, fishy, funky), it's powerful and explosive.
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| Photo Credit: Wikipedia |
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| Photo Credit: Wikipedia |
The Tonkotsu broth is built from boiling pork bones, collagen and fat over high heat for hours. Its consistency is thus, typically, thick with flecks of fat and rich flavors. Some shops will add chicken stock.
Tsukemen (pronounced skay-men) was a new discovery for me. Plump noodles are served cooked and chilled on a platter next to a bowl of gravy like 'broth'. The noodles are to be dipped into the broth and devoured. Often, the broth is topped with dried fish powder which adds a shock of flavor when mixed in.
The culture in Tokyo ramen shops
A Beautiful Ballet
Upon entering any given ramen shop in Tokyo, every head is bowed as if in a place of worship, and though no one is really chatting (in line or sitting besides one another), there's a warmth, a welcoming hold felt.
Not even the chef says much as he takes your tickets anf dances with his cohorts in the kitchen building beautiful bowls or when he graciously places your personal bowl of heaven in front of you.
Complete silence, however, is not what you will encounter. What you will hear is the slurping.
It takes awhile for me to place my American "hometraining" down on the ramen bar and engage in this tradition- acceptable loud slurping of your precious noodles coated in steaming, umami-laden soup!
You immediately feel like you're part of the clan, the cool kids' table. It's community at its best.
You immediately feel like you're part of the clan, the cool kids' table. It's community at its best.
There are however unspoken rules. You are expected to eat ALL of what you've ordered (it is considered bad manners not to do so) and you're expected to do so rapidly and not linger (this is easy to do when you've just waited in the extended line and the next group is lined up beside or behind you). I was told an 8-10 minute run is ideal.
Our first stop
Konjiki Hototogisu (金色不如帰)
in Shinjuku
Konjiki Hototogisu (金色不如帰)
in Shinjuku
We met at the Hatagaya train station (I ubered because I was running late and realized that this was the 3rd continent on which I've used Uber car service...so I tweeted UberTokyo, of course).
We walked through Shinjuku down a brightly lit, wide, bricked sidewalk flanked by shops slinging produce, clothing, electronics, and knick-knacks.
Once we turned down a dark alley off of the main market street, my curiosity was immediately piqued.
My luck continued as we arrived just before opening at 6:30 pm. We were first in line and watched the line grow exponentially as we waited.
Great ramen shops will always have crazy lines. Some wait hours for a bowl and lines can literally wrap around city corners.
Another lucky thing is that the ramen master and his one "sous" at Hototogisu makes a weekly 'special' ramen on Thursday nights only.
On this evening, I, along with my guide and gentlemen at the 6 other seats in Hototogisu demolished the niboshi -shoyu ramen special.
We walked through Shinjuku down a brightly lit, wide, bricked sidewalk flanked by shops slinging produce, clothing, electronics, and knick-knacks.
Once we turned down a dark alley off of the main market street, my curiosity was immediately piqued.
My luck continued as we arrived just before opening at 6:30 pm. We were first in line and watched the line grow exponentially as we waited.
Great ramen shops will always have crazy lines. Some wait hours for a bowl and lines can literally wrap around city corners.
Another lucky thing is that the ramen master and his one "sous" at Hototogisu makes a weekly 'special' ramen on Thursday nights only.
On this evening, I, along with my guide and gentlemen at the 6 other seats in Hototogisu demolished the niboshi -shoyu ramen special.
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| Brian ordering our ramen from the typical vending machine you'll find at the entrance...his picture is just above him on the machine. That made me chuckle and realize I was in good hands! |
The broth was punchy! The strongest flavors I've ever encountered during my own ramen adventures.
It was deep, funky, slick, pleasantly bitter, and heavily umami showcasing hefty seafood and brine imparted by the
niboshi (dried sardines).
The noodles were loosely curly and cooked al dente making them chewy and bouncy.
It was deep, funky, slick, pleasantly bitter, and heavily umami showcasing hefty seafood and brine imparted by the
niboshi (dried sardines).
The noodles were loosely curly and cooked al dente making them chewy and bouncy.
The chashu (roasted pork) was tender and virtually melted in my mouth- high quality, thick cut, roasted pork.
Our next stop was truly the highlight of my visit!
Fuunji (風雲児) in Shinjuku
I believed I grinned the entire time we were at Fuunji, from the wait outside to the wait within. However, my heart literally filled with joy and anticipation as we waiting against the side wall behind slurping patrons and overlooking the dance going on between 4 ramen geniuses in the kitchen.
I tweeted this sentiment at that moment:
"A ramen "Mecca". Feels like hallowed ground watching this gentle machine at work #BowlNumber2"
It may sound quite dramatic, but for me it was a moment of transcendence. I was celebrating my 12th month of ramen obsession on the soil where much of it has been developed over centuries and perfected...Japan!
Fuuji's ramen master is a gentle man. He and his team literally glide around each other, building majestic bowls of the slick, rich broth with dollops of flavor-enhancing marrow, fat and collagen (pulled out of long hours of cooking bones at high heat- I believe Fuuji only uses chicken vs. pork which is rare) topped with nagi (Japanese scallion) and a heaping spoonful of umami-rich dried Japanese fish powder that once mixed into the base is one of the most powerful flavor experiences I've ever had! It was magnificent!
Once out on my own the following days, I sampled the following:
Yasube (つけ麺屋 やすべえ)
in Shinjuku
After having birthday drinks with one of the most amazing bartenders I've had the pleasure of meeting (Hiroyasu Kayama at Bar Benfiddich-review to follow), he took hospitality to an entire other galaxy by serving the last group of patrons in the bar (this was after 2 am), removed his white tuxedo jacked and red silk tie, walked us over (about 6-7 blocks) to his favorite Tsukemen ramen shop, purchased my bowl at the vending machine, wished me a happy birthday and went back to work to finish his shift!
What a class act!
Unfortunately, I did not share his love of Yasube's Tsukemen. I found the people within to be just as cold as the acceptably chewy noodles. I found the broth to be less than my expectations. It was thin and uninteresting.
I guess after Fuuji and other hotspots for this amazing dish like Tetsu, you'll never be the same.
I finished my bowl courteously and called it a night.
Ichiran in Shibuya
(and its other chain locations)
Ichiran serves classic Tonkotsu ramen. Their claim to fame is their ORIGINAL Red Sauce, a red pepper based sauce including 30 other spices.
This shop is different.
While it is a chain, they serve a damn good ramen and in a fun and unique way.
So far, I've presented the shops from classic matchbox to classic seating at least (elbow to elbow stools around a central kitchen where you can watch the ramen master and his apprentices at work).
At Ichiran (which remains on the top 10 list for tourists and seems to also be a favorite of many natives), there are individual dining booths.
After buying your meal at the vending machine (as per usual), there is another machine which guides you to open seats.
You also get to choose a number of tastes and textures for your bowl!
The bowl is perfectly rich with awesome fat droplets afloat. The booths have a window with a bamboo curtain through which your order is delivered by mysterious arms.
You peel your own egg and they are perfectly runny and the color of a sunset:
Overall, Ichiran serves a lovely, flavorful bowl of Tonkotsu with entertainment to boot. Somehow, anywhere I travel (abroad or otherwise) I always find a chain restaurant to fall in love with (in Paris it was Higuma Ramen, in Boston and NYC it's Totto Ramen).
For dessert, they offer a creamy, refreshing matcha (green tea) tofu custard with a texture similar to flan.
It's a beautiful dish.
Oh, and did I mention this shop is open 24/7! An insomniac's dream come true!!!
My last stop on my solo ramen tour was to
AFURI (恵比寿) in Ebisu
Recommended by NYC Ramen King, Chef Ivan Orkin in an article on the Lucky Peach website covering the top ramen shops in Tokyo!
This was my first venture into Ebisu.
Ebisu is a beautiful neighborhood, full of life! There are tons of shops, restaurants, bakeries, bars, etc.
It was an easy neighborhood to navigate after leaving the huge train station and was only one stop away from my home base of Shibuya.
There were swanky shops toting sushi and shochu next to pubs and fast food sushi shops-an all encompassing type of 'hood.
Afuri is a "café-style" shop. I saw more Americans in this particular shop than I felt I'd encountered at any of the previous shops and even during my few days in Tokyo.
It, however, didn't feel like a tourist trap by any means and they were serving up some righteous bowls!
I ordered their Tsukemen at the vending machine, adding an egg and charshu. This was the first shop in which I also dared order a beer!
What was strikingly different about the Tsukemen at Afuri was that the noodles (buried underneath all of the toppings in the bowl) were warm, along with (obviously) the toppings.
The broth (which was a mindblower) was chilled and aromatic.
The flavors were brilliant and bright, a mildly vinegary sweet and smoky broth with sesame oil and whole, crisp sesame seeds. Bits of grated ginger added a tad bit of spice to the broth and little bursts of spicy surprise once bitten into.
The kakuni (cubes of braised pork) added the perfect level of slick fattiness to the dish and the charshu was mostly delicate with lovely smoky charred bits on the edges.
As I sat there, taking data into all of my senses, I understood why conversation over a miraculous bowl of ramen such as this can be taboo in Japan.
There's so much more to concentrate on and contemplate about right in front of you, at the end of your chopsticks, on the middle of your palate, entering your nares and tickling your olfactory bulb; resonating in your ears as surrounding patrons slurp their way to nirvana.
I'm already contemplating my next visit to Japan.
There is so much more I want to experience there.
After all, I only dined at 5 of 1000s of ramen ya.
This is the first installment of a three part series entitles "DrFoodie Goes Solo in Tokyo" covering my last minute, way to short addition to my birthday trip (November 2015). I managed to squeeze in much more than ramen too!
Check out Part Two, here:
Booze in a Beautiful Bar- Bar Benfiddich
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What a typical night will look like from opening to close at Fuuji. The picture above is from the viewpoint of a person who has just advanced from the line outside (which very well may have extended across the street and even into the adjacent public garden). The patrons against the wall behind those eating patiently await a seat.  The chef will collect the tickets dispensed after your vending machine order in preparation for your dish.  |
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| The Ramen Master at Fuuji. Photo Credit: Lucky Peach |
I tweeted this sentiment at that moment:
"A ramen "Mecca". Feels like hallowed ground watching this gentle machine at work #BowlNumber2"
It may sound quite dramatic, but for me it was a moment of transcendence. I was celebrating my 12th month of ramen obsession on the soil where much of it has been developed over centuries and perfected...Japan!
Fuuji's ramen master is a gentle man. He and his team literally glide around each other, building majestic bowls of the slick, rich broth with dollops of flavor-enhancing marrow, fat and collagen (pulled out of long hours of cooking bones at high heat- I believe Fuuji only uses chicken vs. pork which is rare) topped with nagi (Japanese scallion) and a heaping spoonful of umami-rich dried Japanese fish powder that once mixed into the base is one of the most powerful flavor experiences I've ever had! It was magnificent!
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| The container on the left is ice water and the one on the right is heated thinner broth. It is customary to drink the remainder of your broth from the bowl after noodles and toppings are gone, but Tsukemen is so robust and thick, adding hot thinning broth helps with this tradition. |
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| With an egg |
Once out on my own the following days, I sampled the following:
Yasube (つけ麺屋 やすべえ)
in Shinjuku
After having birthday drinks with one of the most amazing bartenders I've had the pleasure of meeting (Hiroyasu Kayama at Bar Benfiddich-review to follow), he took hospitality to an entire other galaxy by serving the last group of patrons in the bar (this was after 2 am), removed his white tuxedo jacked and red silk tie, walked us over (about 6-7 blocks) to his favorite Tsukemen ramen shop, purchased my bowl at the vending machine, wished me a happy birthday and went back to work to finish his shift!
What a class act!
Unfortunately, I did not share his love of Yasube's Tsukemen. I found the people within to be just as cold as the acceptably chewy noodles. I found the broth to be less than my expectations. It was thin and uninteresting.
I guess after Fuuji and other hotspots for this amazing dish like Tetsu, you'll never be the same.
 |
| Tsukemen at Yasube |
I finished my bowl courteously and called it a night.
Ichiran in Shibuya
(and its other chain locations)
Ichiran serves classic Tonkotsu ramen. Their claim to fame is their ORIGINAL Red Sauce, a red pepper based sauce including 30 other spices.
This shop is different.
While it is a chain, they serve a damn good ramen and in a fun and unique way.
So far, I've presented the shops from classic matchbox to classic seating at least (elbow to elbow stools around a central kitchen where you can watch the ramen master and his apprentices at work).
At Ichiran (which remains on the top 10 list for tourists and seems to also be a favorite of many natives), there are individual dining booths.
After buying your meal at the vending machine (as per usual), there is another machine which guides you to open seats.
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| Vending machine |
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| Open/Occupied Seating Machine |
You also get to choose a number of tastes and textures for your bowl!
 |
| Careful of the red sauce...it is fiery! It's also for sale! |
The bowl is perfectly rich with awesome fat droplets afloat. The booths have a window with a bamboo curtain through which your order is delivered by mysterious arms.
You peel your own egg and they are perfectly runny and the color of a sunset:
Overall, Ichiran serves a lovely, flavorful bowl of Tonkotsu with entertainment to boot. Somehow, anywhere I travel (abroad or otherwise) I always find a chain restaurant to fall in love with (in Paris it was Higuma Ramen, in Boston and NYC it's Totto Ramen).
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| Tonkotsu Ramen at Ichiran Shibuya |
For dessert, they offer a creamy, refreshing matcha (green tea) tofu custard with a texture similar to flan.
It's a beautiful dish.
Oh, and did I mention this shop is open 24/7! An insomniac's dream come true!!!
My last stop on my solo ramen tour was to
AFURI (恵比寿) in Ebisu
Recommended by NYC Ramen King, Chef Ivan Orkin in an article on the Lucky Peach website covering the top ramen shops in Tokyo!
This was my first venture into Ebisu.
Ebisu is a beautiful neighborhood, full of life! There are tons of shops, restaurants, bakeries, bars, etc.
It was an easy neighborhood to navigate after leaving the huge train station and was only one stop away from my home base of Shibuya.
There were swanky shops toting sushi and shochu next to pubs and fast food sushi shops-an all encompassing type of 'hood.
Afuri is a "café-style" shop. I saw more Americans in this particular shop than I felt I'd encountered at any of the previous shops and even during my few days in Tokyo.
It, however, didn't feel like a tourist trap by any means and they were serving up some righteous bowls!
I ordered their Tsukemen at the vending machine, adding an egg and charshu. This was the first shop in which I also dared order a beer!
What was strikingly different about the Tsukemen at Afuri was that the noodles (buried underneath all of the toppings in the bowl) were warm, along with (obviously) the toppings.
The broth (which was a mindblower) was chilled and aromatic.
The flavors were brilliant and bright, a mildly vinegary sweet and smoky broth with sesame oil and whole, crisp sesame seeds. Bits of grated ginger added a tad bit of spice to the broth and little bursts of spicy surprise once bitten into.
The kakuni (cubes of braised pork) added the perfect level of slick fattiness to the dish and the charshu was mostly delicate with lovely smoky charred bits on the edges.
As I sat there, taking data into all of my senses, I understood why conversation over a miraculous bowl of ramen such as this can be taboo in Japan.
There's so much more to concentrate on and contemplate about right in front of you, at the end of your chopsticks, on the middle of your palate, entering your nares and tickling your olfactory bulb; resonating in your ears as surrounding patrons slurp their way to nirvana.
I'm already contemplating my next visit to Japan.
There is so much more I want to experience there.
After all, I only dined at 5 of 1000s of ramen ya.
This is the first installment of a three part series entitles "DrFoodie Goes Solo in Tokyo" covering my last minute, way to short addition to my birthday trip (November 2015). I managed to squeeze in much more than ramen too!
Check out Part Two, here:
Booze in a Beautiful Bar- Bar Benfiddich
