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Tenzin Conechok Samdo. "Smoked Rosemary Point" cocktail | |
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The Smoked Rosemary Point |
Trade Creates is one of the premiere cocktail programs in Boston because of three major things:
1. The ability to open up customers to share their cocktail desires and requirements.
2. The introduction of new and exciting flavors and boozy products to the adventurous consumer.
3. An amazingly talented crew behind the stick.
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Starting the conversation at Trade...the way any conversation begins with a great bartender...even if not in writing. |
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What my communication looks like...LOL |
I met Tenzin back when he was tending bar at a low key hotel bar on the way home from my then office of 5 years at Harvard Medical School home to Brookline's Longwood Towers. Always courteous and kind, I was uber excited to see him break free and into Boston's major cocktail scene...the big leagues!
Tenzin now serves as head bartender at Jodi Adams' Trade Restaurant on Atlantic Avenue in the Waterfront District was recently featured on www.Zagat.com's 9 Up-and-Coming Bartenders You Need to Know in Boston.
He is the type of bartender that will blow your mind with his preparation of a cocktail alone and this is not because of fancy tricks or gadgets.
Tenzin does not need bells and whistles to call attention to his craft.
For instance, I have literally seen heads turn at the bar in Trade when he was making both the "Italian in Oaxaca" and "Smoked Rosemary Point" simply because he smoked a dried sprig of rosemary for both libations with smoked cedar added to the former. The aroma alone drew other patrons in and was the perfect opening to spark interest and curiosity.
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Tenzin Samdo, Trade Restaurant bartender, smoking dried rosemary and cedar for a cocktail |
"The Italian in Oaxaca"
1 oz. Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal
1 oz. Johnnie Walker Black Blended Scotch Whisky
0.5 oz. Green Chartreuse
0.5 oz. Braulio Amaro Alpino
The Italian in Oaxaca is smoke upon smoke upon smoke without being overbearing or overwhelming (which may just be impossible according to my palate). Notes of bitter from the Braulio Amaro play with the barside smoked cedar and rosemary. It's woodsy and earthy, like the familiar waft of a bonfire, autumn's burning leaves, or campfire.
Like any amaro, Braulio Amaro Alpino has a romantic back story which, briefly, begins in the mid to late nineteenth century when botanist Dottore Francesco Peloni developed the original recipe in the mountain
region of Bormio, Lombardy. The
ingredients are include fresh herbs that are dried
and fermented with spring water from the Valtellina mountain region and alcohol, followed by a, rare for amaro, 2 year oak barrel maturation process.
Only four out of thirteen herbs used to create Braulio are known: gentian, juniper, wormwood, and yarrow. The remainder is passed only from one generation to the next.
Two out of three smoke-imparting components include the Del Maguey VIDA Mezcal, a beautiful mixing, sipping, or barreling Mezcal and the familiar Johnnie Walker Black blended scotch whisky.
Mid-palate, the Trinidadian spice of Angostura bitters introduces herself in her playful sing-song voice followed by the herbaceous accent of green chartreuse.
It's a complex cocktail where each component is not lost amongst the other, but highlighted along the journey from glass to glottis.
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"Italian in Oaxaca" |
After smoking the dried rosemary and cedar in a covered heavy glass, the enticing aroma became an integral component of the cocktail, awaiting the addition of the other ingredients.
Imparting smoky flavors into liquid is always special, particularly when the customer witnesses this creation.
Another cocktail I've experienced in which smoke was a major component was at Grant Achatz's Chicago-based stellar Restaurant/Drink Kitchen, The Aviary. The bar features a tiny (10 seater), well sought after back bar called The Office, a dark and sexy lounge space perfect for couples and groups alike, and a spacious dining room.
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Smoked Manhattan @ The Aviary-Chicago |
Tenzin also showcases his talent with both garnish and presentation design.
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A beautiful flip by Tenzin. A.K orange garnish. Photo Credit: Maggie Campbell |
"Max Altitude"
1.5 oz. Bully Boy White Whiskey
2 oz. Averna Amaro
.5 oz. Yellow Chartreuse
.5 oz. Kummel
Served in an Absinthe and Orange oil washed chilled rocks glass
Garnish: Rose & Orange blossom water in a 6 cc syringe
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The New Infusion...Injection |
On one recent visit, we were able to sample the cocktail, now on the menu, that was featured at the James Beard Foundation awards dinner this year:
"Touristas in the Orient"
Espolón Reposado Tequila
Cucumber
Yuzu
Agave
Thai bird chili
Szechuan peppercorn
Cilantro
This vibrant green affair was complex yet beautifully balanced with the earthiness imparted by both the cucumber and cilantro, the spice of the chili and peppercorn, and the umami character of Japanese yuzu (a favorite of mine).
And don't forget to try one of the barrel-aged cocktails. The last one I sampled was a fabulous Greenpoint, aged two weeks in house.
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This crowd was absolutely pleased with our sips! Summer Williams
(Professor/Teacher of Theatre), Erika Harper (Fashionista/Fine Arts
Student), Dr. Markeya K. Williams (Me/DrFoodie), Maggie Campbell (Head
Distiller, Privateer Rum), Nick Wilson (Harvard Gov't School
Graduate/Food&Cocktail Writer LA and Boston), Peter (Distilling
Master in Training, Privateer Rum) Photo credit: Maggie Campbell |
Of course no trip to Trade is complete without sampling a few of Executive Chef Andrew Hebert and Pastry Chef Sara's creations from the kitchen.
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Scallion pancakes with sesame and chili dipping sauce |
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Local burrata with date purée and Marcona almonds |
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My friend Summer pondering the deliciousness of Chef Sara's Baked Alaska |
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Expect personalized service...check out my 'pen name' on the receipt. That's customer service! |
If you have not visited Tenzin and the amazing crew at Trade, you are missing a true gift to the city of Boston. Head down and/or let me know what you think! I'm sure we'll run into each other at the stick soon!
Check out previously featured tipples of the month, here!